


Bonjour, chers lecteurs! I apologize for the lack of updates in the last week -- the good ship Penquod has been sailing merrily around the cafés and boulevards of Paris. I won't bore you with the tale of how
dramas at Bristol Airport caused our return flight to be redirected to Heathrow, which then led to a chauffeur-driven Mercedes being laid on to transfer the Inkette and me from London back to the West Country at speeds of up to 100mph in the dead of night -- Ink Quest is not the place for 'human interest' stories. I will, rather, get straight to what really matters: ink.
The Inkette had, through gritted teeth, agreed that I could have a little time to dip into some of the pen shops of Paris, so I'd obsessively prepared a detailed, annotated list and pored over maps with a little help from
Glenn Marcus' excellent website. The inkcounters began earlier than expected, however. As I was wandering around one of the galleries in the Centre Georges Pompidou, my eye was caught by a television screen that was a showing a short film of a man dipping a pen into a large bottle of Quink and starting to write on a piece of paper. There was a problem, though: it was raining heavily, so his words were constantly erased or reduced to a series of faint streaks. Before too long the bottle of ink was overflowing with rain water. The man was defeated. This magnificent work of art, I now know, is Marcel Broodthaers'
La Pluie (Projet pour un texte), which dates from 1969. I urge all lovers of ink to make a pilgrimage to Paris to see it at the earliest opportunity. And if Nathan Tardif ever decides to advertise his wonderful Noodler's 'Bulletproof' inks on television, a short clip from Broodthaers' film would provide a perfect illustration of the problems of traditional ink.
The following day, the search for exciting inks well and truly began. First port of call was a shop called Stylos Marbeuf, just off the Champs-Elysées, where a mouth-watering display of pens awaited me. I could have spent thousands of pounds here, but I limited myself to a bottle of Omas Blue. This safely stashed in the hold of the Penquod, I sailed a little further along the Champs-Elysées to Rue Quentin Bauchart, where I docked at Point Plume and admired the cases of pens that I've always dreamed of seeing (and owning, of course). Again, it was a real struggle to keep my credit card in my wallet, particularly when faced with some glorious Omas specimens. While the ink cabinet at Point Plume was well stocked, nothing really cried out to be purchased, so I left empty-handed and took the Métro over to Styl' Honoré on Rue Marche St. Honoré, where I found the true highlight of the Parisian trip.
I'd read on Glenn Marcus' website that the owner of Styl' Honoré makes and sells his own inks. On entering the shop, I noticed a tantalizing display of bottles labelled
Encre Cocktail on a shelf behind the counter. In my best A-level French, I asked the assistant if the ink in question was suitable for fountain pens. 'Yes', she said, 'they're made especially for fountain pens, and they're our own brand' (I'm translating, of course). She then handed me a piece of card with swatches of the colours, and my heart skipped a beat when I saw a splendid brown called 'Chocolat'. This was to be mine, I immediately decided, so I asked for a bottle, which was lovingly wrapped and placed into an elegant bag. And all for eleven euros!
It wasn't until we were on the way back to the hotel that I realized that a problem lay ahead of the Penquod on its return journey from France to Wales. While airlines now allow passengers to travel with small amounts of liquid in their hand luggage, these have to be carried in transparent and resealable plastic bags, which are likely to be inspected by security guards at the airport. Both of my new acquisitions fell within the 100ml limit, but I couldn't help feeling that carrying two bottles of ink (and no other liquids) through the checkpoint at Charles de Gaulle would only call attention to myself in a foolish manner. All of the publicity material issued by the airlines mentions substances such as shampoo and perfume, but there's no mention of ink. 'Pourquoi avez-vous
deux flacons d'encre, monsieur?', I could imagine the heavily-armed guards asking, and I just couldn't see 'Parce que j'adore l'encre' striking them as a convincing answer. I believe, too, that passengers can be asked to, say, take a sip of a drink to prove its authenticity, but what would they ask me to do with my ink? Do their machine guns have quills strapped to their barrels?
I worried about this all of yesterday morning, even when we were strolling around the magnificent Père Lachaise cemetery, where I left a little stone on Proust's grave. (I know that you would probably have preferred a madeleine, Marcel, but I couldn't find one.) In the end, I reluctantly packed the two bottles in the suitcase for checking into the hold of the plane. (They were, of course, neurotically wrapped in several plastic bags and then cushioned between clothing.) And then I worried throughout the flight about the bottles breaking in transit. Couldn't airlines offer a special red 'Inkredibly Fragile' sticker for the cases of passengers travelling with ink, I wondered?
But they survived, and I can report that the Cocktail Chocolat is a beautiful shade. (True obsessives will surely want to know that it's a bit like a cross between Diamine Sepia and Sheaffer Brown.) The Omas Blue is also wonderful, but it's the Styl' Honoré exclusive that's really caught my attention. And not just because it's a very pleasant colour. The fact that it's made especially for one shop in one city has awakened in me the desire for a bespoke ink. This, I think, might be the way finally to bring the Ink Quest to an end. I've searched so long for the perfect brown, and I've bought more bottles than I can remember, but I've never found
the one. Perhaps I've been doing things the wrong way around. Perhaps I should, rather than drifting around the world in the Penquod in search of the colour of my dreams, arrange to have the colour of my dreams created and shipped to my door. Oui, oui -- I shall become an armchair Ahab.
Inks in use today: Omas Blue; Styl' Honoré Cocktail Chocolat.